NuNomad Location Independent Living, Lifestyle Design, Independent Travel

by Ricardo

This is my third time to Belgium as an independent traveler. The country is definitely beginning to grow on me.

How I got here (And I don’t mean by that crappy airline, Air Canada):
Nine years ago I took some down-time from website designing to traipse through Myanmar’s* (Burma’s) north. I had recently based myself in Bangkok, and Myanmar was the only surrounding country I had yet to visit. (It was being boycotted. But, since I would be staying only in small family-owned guest houses, I knew my being there would be more of a help to struggling families than a hindrance to democracy.) Anyway it was in Myanmar, in the town of Inle Lake, where I met a twenty-something Belgium couple that would be instrumental in my being here in Antwerp, Belgium (where I file this missive between sips of La Treppe dark ale).

When I met Tine and Bart, she was sweating through a bout of yet-to-be-diagnosed Dengue fever—while the distraught boyfriend wrung his hands pensively. (Myanmar is not a place where you want to be sick). By happenstance, I had befriended a French doctor who was stationed in Thailand (a socially conscious medical professional who knew no borders) earlier that day. So, I connected the vacationing doctor with the traveler patient. Tine was soon cured. Well, out of all this came new friendships, as well as temporary new travel partners. After another week in Myanmar the three of us meandered our way back into Thailand, and then down south until we paused our travels on the island of Ko Lanta. There we took up huts on a beach, where we met yet another Antwerp Belgian—Butch—who was tending the “resort’s” bamboo bar. To make a long story short, it was through these chance encounters that I met my first Belgian friends, people who eventually steered me to their under-traveled homeland (sandwiched between the ever-popular destinations of France, The Netherlands and Germany), to their family and friends.

Here and now:
I’ve now been in the northern (Flemish) city of Antwerp for five weeks, staying with the mother of Tine and her mate. (Bart and Tine have since produced two children and their responsibilities limit their socializing time—unlike that of J & A with whom I’m staying. Butch is still on Ko Lanta, selling specialty hammocks.) But, and to return to topic, I’m not getting a whole lot of work done. You see, during the summer months Belgium is graced with a lot of diversions, such as festivals—really nice festivals—with mind-boggling amounts of amazing local beers, wines from France, food from everywhere. And when one is not at a festival one (okay, me) might be distracted with exploring Bruges, trips to world-class museums, free outdoor concerts, and more garden dinners than a calorie counter wishes to monitor. You get the picture. All of which is quite affordable, especially with the recent decline of the Euro against other global currencies.

So, how nomad-friendly is this country:
Although Belgium is a very picturesque and pleasant country to spend time in—a fine alternative to the other more pricy European destinations—it could surely use a bit more services for the modern traveler and nomad .

As posted in the Nu Nomad Destinations’ Belgium page, Belgium is not the most nomad-friendly country I’ve been to recently. Temporary internet access (meaning no long-term contract required) is limited to HotSpots, the public libraries (though service there is unexpectedly slow and antiquated) and through several 3G wireless service providers, which could get pricey if you’re transferring a lot of data. Antwerp and Bruges, being more old-fashioned than other major cities, does not place a high priority on access to the world-wide-web. The city of Ghent—with its significant student population—and Brussels—being the largest city—seemed to have plenty of (unsecured) wi-fi spots within cafes, the B&Bs and hostels. As for accommodations, your best bet is to check the Belgium expat sites (classifieds) such as XPats.com and Xpatica.com for short-term and monthly rentals and house-shares. And be sure to read our blog on Finding Nomad Friendly Accommodations.

What to do and where to go:
I’ll first say that Belgium is a cyclist’s paradise. Belgium is flat as a crepe, bike trails are nearly as plentiful as auto lanes, and rental bikes are available in the main tourist centers. Cycling Bruges would be a good place to start (although avoid the weekends when tourism is at its peak). For hiking and kayaking, set your sights on the Ardennes in Belgium’s southern reaches. Go to any number of local festivals (usually held in the summer). There’s an exceptional one in Ghent in late July that celebrates Belgium’s independence. This well organized event, public party, lasts for 10 days! If you like beer, visit one of Belgium’s abbeys. (For variety, I recommend the Kulminator in Antwerp. This pub has 500 beers to choose from, served in a quaint and friendly environment.) For food you mustn’t miss-out on the chocolates, cheeses, Belgian waffles, Belgian fries, and mussels.

As I now prepare to depart Belgium for the USA, I look forward to returning here. Well, as soon as I burn off the extra weight I’m sure I’ve accumulated.

* Note: little nomading can be done in Myanmar under the oppressive watch of the military dictatorship, one which monitor’s not only your whereabouts but all Internet communications—a near non-existent service that is available only at a few high-end hotels.