Laptopping through Sri Lanka
Finding India too chaotic or Nepal a bit rural as a working-traveler destination? Perhaps you’ll appreciate the middle-ground of Sri Lanka.
The Internet is no longer an esoteric technology on this island nation of nearly twenty million (though broadband is still limited to only the largest of cities such as Kandy, Negombo and in and around the capitol of Colombo), thus affording working nomads to spend mornings and afternoons traipsing through former Ceylon’s numerous UNESCO World Heritage Sites and amazing national parks, while leaving the island’s quiet evenings for a bit of bill-paying work.
The Basics:
Internet access, though patchy and limited mostly to dial-up service, is now a part of Sri Lankan life and available in virtually all of the traveler destinations. Cyber “cafes” (don’t expect there to be any actual food here) are quickly replacing the familiar telephone rooms (communications bureaus) with options of net-to-phone (though not reliable without broadband service), regular land-line phone service, and sales of pre-paid mobile phone “scratcher” access cards. SLTNet (www.sltnet.lk) is the primary Internet service provider for the island. Purchase a 200RS/$2USD (simply convert rupees to cents) pre-paid access card and that should cover your needs (10 hours). You will, however, need to spend a few minutes registering on-line via their limited access sign-up portal (which is accessed through your laptop and the pre-paid card). Once inside SLTNet’s easy-to-understand interface, you’ll create your own login name and password—which you’ll use from that moment on. Most guest houses/hotels will not object to your using their land-line for dial-up, though they may ask for about 2RS/minute as a service charge. SLTNet provides a national (apparently, toll free) access number. Some guest houses/hotels (“tourist rest houses”) provide Internet service via their, generally, antiquated machines. Some of the larger, 4-5 star, hotels have Wi-Fi and provide it to their guests free of charge (though if you’re a true Laptop Hobo, you probably won’t be finding yourself in too many of these posh establishments).
Wireless interface via Bluetooth is not yet available for the tourists. This seems to be an issue more with the mobile phone service providers (Dialog) than with the lack of any Bluetooth signal. (I was told by Dialog that pre-paid accounts do not enjoy this access bud hinted that monthly accounts do.) However, not being able to connect your mobile phone to the ISP is no reason to not obtain a country-wide SIM card. You’ll find having your own phone very handy throughout your travels. In Colombo, where you’ll arrive and leave from, purchase a SIM card and pre-paid “reload” card at any of the numerous mobile phone shops and “communications bureaus”. But if you don’t get connected in the capitol, don’t worry. Any big town will have what you need. (I purchased my SIM card and reload card in a shopping complex directly across from historic Galle Fort. 700RS for the SIM along with 1000RS worth of telephone time—which was more than enough for my 3 week trip.) Oh, I gave the tuk-tuk driver a 50RS tip for pointing me to the right location. (It seems that all tuk tuk drivers have mobile phones.)
As for the working area/environment, I found that most of the older tourist rest houses had a table, writing desk or vanity within the rooms for guests to use. In the newer and/or extreme budget lodgings you may have to make due with working off any of the numerous dining tables or from your lap. In-room electrical connections were usually limited to two: one in the sleeping area and one in the adjoining washroom. The power, as with virtually all of Asia, is 220 volts and can be connect with your international adapter. (Note that there is a rather awkward safety device that requires your pushing aside a recessed pin cover. Ask your hotel manager for help if you are unable to figure it out.) And as mentioned previously, several of the tourist rest houses offer their own Internet access service which includes the usual computer work station.
Security:
The operators of all of the establishments I stayed in were as helpful as they were watchful—plenty. Additionally, each room had adequate door and window locks—many windows had bars. (This ominous precaution was as much for the numerous naughty monkeys as for the thieves.) Half of the rooms I stayed in provided some sort of locked reciprocal, be it a fortified night stand, an antique wardrobe or desk drawer. In the larger hotels, where the proprietors had too big of an area to keep an eye on, I often left my laptop with the manager while I visited the ancient remains of Kandy, Galle, Sigirya, Polonnaruwa, Anuradhapura, or walked the white sandy beaches.
Personal safety was not an issue for me. Sri Lankans, unlike what I’ve encountered in India, tended to respect your personal space. No doubt there were plenty of petty thieves around, but belligerence was not encountered. And, yes, there is a civil war going on, but that has been limited primarily to the island’s north and north-east. Additionally, terrorist attacks have not (to date) been targeted toward foreign visitors. The military presence can be a little disconcerting, but I found that their inspection of virtually every bus I traveled on was more appreciated than frowned upon. Yet the war and the possibility of being a victim of it (though remote) is a travel factor you need to consider. Since the media has well publicized Sri Lanka’s recent terrorist flare-ups—thus putting off many visitors to the island—I was able to visit some of the world’s most amazing sites with virtually no tourist obstructions. I often had entire sites all to myself—a great way to see a historic area, if not a bit lonely. You would be well advised, however, to get up-to-date information on Sri Lanka’s current level of hostilities by talking to those who have just left the country. Also, Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree forum is always a great source for this sort of stuff, or place your questions/comments in www.NuNomad.com/forum.
Costs:
Finally, the cost of doing business/traveling in Sri Lanka: The exchange rate was $1USD to 107RS. You can simply convert rupees into US cents for an easily calculable formula. There is a two-tier pricing scheme for visiting any of the national sites and parks. The popular World Heritage sites usually cost $20 each to visit. International student card holders pay half the price. (The locals pay nearly nothing.) Lodging and meals were often of great value. Clean, lovely little budget guest houses/hotels ranged between $6-12 per night. There were cheaper accommodations available, but the around $10 places were always the best value for the money. Beer and spirits were about average cost, and I was able to well afford imported wines when purchased at the “Food Mart” grocery stores. The cost of transportation, due to the age of the trains and buses, was negligible—if not a bit exhausting. All-in-all, costs were similar to that of Thailand or Egypt.
In a Nut Shell:
Sri Lanka is an intriguing, comfortable (save for transport) place to visit. It’s no wonder that Marco Polo described it as the finest island in the world. It is a destination that one could hardly fully visit in a single visit, but can see most of the key sites in less than a month. The country has gorgeous beaches, delicious food, resilient and, generally, helpful people—but it is a country in perpetual struggle.
The former Ceylon’s diverse communities (Buddhist, Hindi, Christians and Muslims) are at the heart of this island’s decades-old civil war. Though most are able to live well with each other as neighbors, it is only the political community which is in turmoil. Perhaps this will be resolved before too long. But for now those who brave a visit to this country will at least have the benefit of seeing Sri Lanka without the crush of tourists, and those whom you’ll meet will, no doubt, be happy that you made the journey.
